AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION 2025
Ama Dablam’s South West Ridge is one of the most stunning climbing routes in the Himalaya and a bucket-list ascent for dedicated alpinists. An exposed rock ridge, towering rock walls and intricate climbing sections, stretches from Camp One to the summit ice fields, offering a thrilling combination of technical challenge and breathtaking views. With unparalleled exposure, the route provides climbers with spectacular panoramas of the Everest Massif—views that are as breathtaking as the climb itself.
This world-class alpine route is celebrated not only for its beauty but also for its accessibility, solid rock, and an unforgettable summit day. Climbers tackle steep and exposed snow slopes, rewarded by vistas of Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, the worlds 1st, 5th, and 6th highest peaks!
While the expedition demands solid mountaineering skills, some altitude experience, and an adventurous spirit, it is not overly extreme. Summit day involves steep snow and ice slopes with exhilarating exposure, culminating in an unforgettable achievement at the top.
OUR EXPEDITION follows the historic route of the mountain's first ascent: the Southwest Ridge. First climbed in 1961, this route is remarkably diverse, offering a wide variety of climbing experiences on the journey to the summit. From Camp 1 onward, the route is consistently exposed and technically demanding.
Base Camp to Camp 1:
From Ama Dablam Base Camp, the climb begins with a moderate ascent along a moraine ridge. This section provides an excellent vantage point to appreciate the entirety of the route ahead.
Camp 1 to Camp 2:
Between Camps 1 and 2 lies the crux of the route, featuring technical rock climbing sections. Climbers will encounter intriguing traverses, a mix of easy fifth-class moves, and a few more challenging pitches with grades up to 5.8. Throughout this section, each move requires active climbing, as fixed ropes are used solely for protection rather than for pulling upward. This is pure climbing, not jug-hauling!
Camp 2 to Camp 3:
This segment presents the most demanding ice climbing on the route. Sustained pitches of steep ice and mixed terrain lead the way, culminating in the famous Mushroom Ridge. This precarious traverse along cornices clinging to a knife-edge ridge is as thrilling as it is breathtaking.
Camp 3 to the Summit:
The final stretch from Camp 3 to the summit eases slightly in technical difficulty. Climbers navigate straightforward 50-70 degree ice and snow, skirting the hanging glacier—known as the Dablam—before tackling the summit face.
This journey combines challenge, exposure, and the rewarding satisfaction of climbing one of the most iconic peaks in the Himalayas.
For a detailed itinerary, please inquire within. We are currently revising the standard Ama Dablam itinerary to reduce the expedition pressures and illnesses often associated with the Khumbu valley. We aim to adjust our acclimatization program to focus on neighboring valleys. Our 21-28 day programs are scheduled to run in early October 2025
