DUFOURSPITZE

Monte Rosa / Dufourspitze, at 4634 meters (15,199 feet) it is the highest mountain in Switzerland! It is a long and demanding climb that rewards the climber with unequaled views into Italy to the south, as far as Mont Blanc in the west, with all the great peaks scattered along the Italian border between the Matterhorn and the Mont Blanc Massif.

The normal route from the Swiss side is via the West Ridge. From Zermatt the climb requires 2 to 3 days; the first to approach the Monte Rosa Hut, the second to make the ascent and return to the hut, and the third reserved for returning to Zermatt. While it is possible to return to town on the ascent day, it is a very long climb, with an elevation gain of 1880 meters (about 6200 feet). Staying a second night in the hut after the summit can make the trip more enjoyable.

The climbing is largely on easy glacier to a saddle at the base of the West Ridge. The ridge itself is then followed up 3rd and 4th class rock, with occasional steeper steps and knife-edged sections, as well as sections of snow or ice up to 40 degrees.

Because of the very large amount of vertical elevation gain and loss when climbing the normal route on Monte Rosa, we recommend spending an extra couple days and reaching the summit via the Italian side. See my 5-day Monte Rosa Traverse page more information. This offers much more climbing, several more summits, and a shorter summit day.

Difficulty

Climbed from the Monte Rosa hut, the normal route is one of the longest moderate routes in the Alps, with over 1800m (6200ft) of elevation gain on summit day, and at high altitude. As a result, the main challenge of this climb is one of fitness, endurance and aerobic conditioning. There is some 4th class rock on the summit ridge and occasionally some 40 degree ice at the base of the West Ridge.

Prerequisites

Excellent fitness is required.

Combinations

The Monte Rosa hut is placed with an eye towards this peak only. There are few other climbs regularly done from this hut. For combinations giving a longer outing, consider the 5-day Monte Rosa Traverse.