In this program, we spend the initial five days exploring, training, and acclimatizing in the Mont Blanc Massif, culminating with an ascent of Mont Blanc. Depending on conditions, we will summit either via the Goûter route or the Trois Monts route. We will spend the first several days acclimatizing in the Mont Blanc Massif using the High Elevation huts as our basecamp (Cosmiques hut or the Torino hut.)

This itinerary presents a formidable challenge. While Mont Blanc is the more approachable of the two peaks, it still entails demanding terrain. Ascending Mont Blanc typically requires 6 to 8 hours, depending on the direction from which we approach, making this a highly demanding objective.

The Matterhorn poses an even greater challenge, primarily consisting of rock climbing with some steep snow sections. Success on this peak hinges on maintaining an efficient and steady pace. While the technical difficulties are not exceedingly severe, (5.6, 4C) this route is characterized by significant exposure with loose and insecure 4th class climbing throughout. Covering over 1200 meters (4000 feet) from the Hornli hut to the summit and retracing the route on the descent creates a long and mentally exhausting day. Climbers must adhere to a pre-established time plan, generally summiting within 4 to 5 hours and aiming for similar timeframes on the descent, totaling 9-11 hours roundtrip.

Prerequisites:

Participants embarking on this intensive 8-day program should possess prior experience in rock climbing and basic crampon skills. Good to excellent physical fitness is the top priority to ensure the safety of the entire team. Comfort and proficiency in utilizing crampons on steep, frozen slopes with a 50-degree incline alpine ice, both in ascent and descent, are prerequisites.

The guide-to-client ratio for Mont Blanc and the preparatory climbs is set at 2:1. However, on the Matterhorn, due to the technical nature of the route, we adhere to a 1:1 ratio.